Trip of a lifetime (part two)

Day Two

Next day we were up at 6am and had a very full day driving. We saw an active volcano, blue, green, red lakes, flamingos, amazing rock formations, stunning scenery wherever you looked. We were about 4000 meters above sea level and all of us were alright with the altitude.

Reports of accommodation for the second night had been dire and we were nervous. But again, it was not as bad as we had expected. We arrived first and choose our dormitory, we were all in together. The beds were not too bad and there were plenty of blankets. We spent the evening playing cards and were fed and watered. There was no hot water and no toilets that flushed and all electricity went off at 9pm, so it was an early night! We were at 4,500 meters and when we went outside the stars were amazing, I have never seen a sky like it… unbelievable. It was cold, but not the minus 20 I had been expected, probably about the same temperature at home at the moment, about minus 5 and in my sleeping bag and lots of blankets and all my clothes on I was snugly!

Day Three

A very early start, we were woken at 4.30am, pitch black with no lights and freezing. We somehow got everything together and set off for the geezers. The Portuguese girls had to sort their contact lenses out so we were about 15minutes late leaving and unfortunately missed the sunrise. We got to the geezers, which again were really strange in the early morning light. It was still freezing cold. We then headed for the hot springs, where at 6.30am in minus temperatures we all stripped off and jumped into the boiling water… it was fantastic, especially as we were all so dirty. We were dreading getting out but it wasn’t so bad and breakfast was waiting for us.
It was then a full speed dash to the Chile boarder where the Portugese group were crossing over to Chile and San Pedro. It was strange, a little shed in the middle of nowhere as the boarder post, we were all very sad to see them go.

The rest of the day was at least 6 hours full speed driving back to Uyuni, just stopping for lunch. I don’t think I have ever been so hot. You couldn’t open the windows because of the dust and the heat in the jeep was unbearable. I was sitting in the front and hanging on for dear life and keeping the driver awake by feeding him coca sweets, liquids and biscuits. He still kept nodding off though, which this time could have been fatal. It was a long tiring day but again driving through he most amazing terrain, passing flocks of Llamas and little else.

We arrived back in Uyuni at 5pm (exactly on time!) where the three of us had dinner and then Jenni, the German girl and I boarded the dreaded bus back to La Paz… again it was horribly uncomfortable, but we made it. Jenni then went straight to the airport and I returned to the same hostel where I’d left most of my stuff.

I know this has been a long blog, but I am so happy that I made the journey and so grateful. I thought earlier this year when I took the trip through the Rockies that that was the most amazing road trip that I would ever make, well I have now managed to make another trip just as spectacular and I know I am very lucky! (also absolutely exhausted and very happy it is raining in La Paz, so lying in bed doing nothing and hoping to recover before setting off for next part of my adventure!)

Definitely a road trip of a life time! (part one)

It may have been incredibly dusty, uncomfortable, extreme weather but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world. What a stunning trip!

It began with an ovenight bus journey from La Paz to Uyuni, a notoriously uncomfortable ride. The first four hours are OK, just a bit bumpy and you settle down to sleep, the next six hours are unbelievable! A bus going extremely fast on a dirt track road full of pot holes, it feels as though you are sitting on a pneumatic drill and it sounds as though you are in the middle of a hurricane! By the time we arrived in Uyuni everyone was exhausted and everyone’s gear on the bus had either been thrown to the back or the front, or anywhere except where it had been put! I took the tourist bus rather than a local bus as it does provide a bit more comfort but I did feel as though I had gate crashed an 18 to 30’s holiday! I was by far the oldest person there!

Tours begin at 10.30am and the bus arrived in Uyuni at 7.30am. Such a strange town, a small salt mining community which eight years ago was unheard of and then the salt tours began. It is in the middle of nowhere and everyday bus loads of people (mainly young back packers) arrive to take the tour and then disappear again.. a strange community. I had done a bit of research and found a company that had average reviews. I asked all the right questions ‘does the driver get drunk’, ‘are there seat belts’ ‘is the 4 by 4 in reliable condition’… that sort of thing! I was given the standard responses and signed up and then went and got breakfast.

When I got back at 10.30am, as I had heard, the companies all join together so that all the jeeps have 6 passengers and it is luck of the draw who your companions are. I think I was pretty lucky, there were two Portuguese girls and one Portuguese guy, a Spanish girl and a German girl, they were all under 30 and all spoke English. They were very kind and most of the time spoke English so that I would understand. They also translated for me as the driver spoke no English. The down side was that our driver was not the best, he was sulky and gave very little information, mind you what a job, twice a week doing 3 days driving over incredibly rough terrain and driving at least 8 hours a day!

Our first stop a train cemetery which I didn’t really get (I think more of a boys toys kind of thing) and then onto the salt plains. It was all I had imagined and more. Hundreds of kilometres of salt and nothing else, except small islands dotted around, which appeared to float in the air. We drove for hours and you could not believe that you were not on ice or snow, we took lots of pictures, everyone taking strange reality shots. It was incredibly hot, probably about 40 degrees, which I hadn’t bargained for. It was beautiful and if you got away from people for a bit it was absolutely silent. At least a dozen 4 by 4’s do the trip daily and everyone makes the same stops, so you are never alone for long.

We spent the whole day driving across the salt plains, stopping at an incredible cactus island for lunch (the driver produces all the food and luckily 3 of us were vegetarians and the food for the 3 days was alright) During the afternoon Julio the driver did keep falling asleep at the wheel, but to be honest there is nothing to hit, so to be asleep for a few minutes at the wheel didn’t make that much difference!

We all knew accommodation would be basic, and it was! The first night was a salt hostel (cow shed) everything made from salt, the walls, beds, tables, seats, loose salt as carpet. But, there was some electricity, basic toilets and if you paid extra a strange hot shower contraption. Food was alright again, although the girls were complaing that it wasn’t salty enough!! Excuse me, just pick some up off the floor! There were plenty of blankets on the bed and it was two to a room. It was early to bed and I did get a bit of sleep.

market mayhem!!

How can there be so many market stalls in one town?? I spent about 4 hours today wandering through a laberynth of tiny streets (I know that is probably spelt wrong but can't find a spell check!), most of the time I was lost but there was so much to see. Amidst stalls selling wool, fruit, meat, jewellery and shoes there are little old ladies who have cooked food at home, half a chicken, potatoes and cheese, all in a bucket, serving up portions for people.

I was after warm clothes for my adventure tomorrow and eventually got the following: a hot water bottle (no idea if there will be access to hot water) a hat, gloves, wool socks, a roll neck jumper, scalf, umbrella, wool jumper and then I really needed a blanket and couldn't find one for some reason so bought a meter of really soft. warm snuggly material... I hope it will be enough!

The plan is this. I catch an overnight bus this evening to Uyuni which arrives about 7am. I will definitely need something to knock me out because half of the journey the road is paved the rest it isn't and it is a notoriously uncomfortable trip, even though I am on the tourist bus which is supposedly pretty good. When I arrive in Uyuni I have to find a tour company which sounds reasonable. There are dozens of companies all offering the same trip but most of them have bad reviews, some of them mixed reviews. I know the questions I have to ask, and the average cost and will trust that I get an OK one. The trips start at 10.30am and involves 3 days of driving and 2 night stops at very basic accomodation, no hot water and everyone sleeping in together (I will hire a sleeping bag in Uyuni!) I know it soulds like hell, but am really hoping that the sights are worth it!

Should return to Uyuni at 5ish on Sunday and I then have the overnight bus booked back here whih leaves at 8pm. I will be shattered. Have booked in to come back to this hostel for the night to recover. The other alternative was to be dropped off at the Chile boarder and come back through Chile but have decided against that.

So wish me luck and I will report back on Monday hopefully!

Demo's and moon valley..

This morning went to the witches market, where all the herbs and potions are sold. I have had to include the picture of the llama foetuses as they are everywhere. When a new building is erected a foetus is buried in the foundations as it is supposed to bring good luck. If people are rich then they kill a full grown llama and bury it! Ours is not to reason why!

I then went on a search for a working ATM, which was a real challenge and ended up down town in the middle of a huge demonstration. There were thousands of people, mainly peasants marching through the streets, there was lots of noise like gun shots which I thought it was to start with but then realised it was fireworks. I found out that these people had come from the surrounding regions to demonstrate because a company had been set up to buy their produce, the company had said it was a government run scheme. The company then disappeared and thousands of people lost all their money and apparently the government is doing nothing to help them. This was why the road was blocked last week, it was these people who were quite rightly trying to be heard and regain some of their money.

In the afternoon I went on a bus ride to Moon Valley, which is a huge valley full of sandstone rock formations which rise from the ground. It was spectacular! A german guy that I was sitting with said that it is similar to the famous valley in the States, but I can’t remember it’s name!

La Paz is an amazing city, so many contrasts, colours, sights and sounds. I think because so many people are dressed in tradional clothes it feels very different to anywhere else I have been.

And I thought Peru was mad!!

Have made it to La Paz in Bolivia (one of the highest cities in the world apparently) after a long day.
The bus was supposed to leave Puno at 7.30am, although the woman had warned me that as it was coming from Lima it could arrive at any time! It eventually showed up at 10.45am. The bus station is on the shore of the lake, although how it can be called a lake when it is obviously another ocean is beyond me! So I went and sat down there for a while and felt very lucky to be sitting by the side of Lake Titicaca. Back at the bus station I chatted to a young English couple for a while and they gave me some useful information about the salt plains.
When the bus eventually showed it was another comfy one. I was tired and did want to sleep but also didn’t want to miss anything. The bus wound its way down the south side of the lake, through all the little villages. Most of the houses are made from mud blocks and reeds and life is so hard for the people. The women are in the fields tending to their small plots of land, or sitting with their animals by the side of the road (usually a few sheep, a couple of pigs and a llama or two) knitting and sewing. They are all in their hats and big skirts and shawls. Not too sure what the men are up to, probably at home in bed!
The Bolivian boarder was mayhem, people and cars and bikes everywhere. We all got off the bus and got our stamps to leave Peru and then walked over the boarder and got our Peruvian stamps. About twenty miles further down the road there was an army blockade and we all had to get out again and show our passports but it seemed to be ok
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Arrived in La Paz about 6pm. It is spectacular as you arrive, you climb up very high and then there is this huge city built into the valley and up the mountain and behind is a huge snow covered mountain.
Luckily I had booked a hostel so had somewhere to head towards. It is pretty central and in the middle of the chaos but think it is OK. It feels like Peru had very little rules and structure, but Bolivia has even less. There are people selling things everywhere! I was really hungry and went straight out to try and find some food; I wandered around and was beginning to think I wouldn’t make it. There are really steep hills and with this altitude it is hard and the only food there seemed to be was chicken.. everywhere! I had actually reached the point of thinking that I was going to have to eat chicken when luckily I found an Israeli restaurant in a hotel that had falafels… I was very relieved!

I’m looking forward to hopefully getting some rest and getting out exploring tomorrow. Everyone says that it is a fascinating city. I need to find out what the exchange rate is and what language people are speaking!

Is it the highest lake in the world??

First views of highest lake in the world… or is it? Certainly I think one of the largest, highest lakes .

I had another bad nights sleep. It was funny when the girls were here I slept really well most of the time but since they have gone not sleeping well again but it doesn’t really matter, its not like I’m having to get up to go to work!

Travelled with Peru’s best bus company today and it really was luxurious and I wasn’t even travelling in the VIP section. Saw two good films, had the vegetarian option for lunch and relaxed. It was only a 6 hour trip and I decided during the journey to not continue to Copacabana today, it would have meant arriving in Bolivia in the dark and I hadn’t booked a hostel. I am staying overnight in Puno which is on the northern shore of Lake Titicaca at 3,800 meters. I felt excited seeing Lake Titicaca for the first time, one of those places that I think everyone remembers from their geography lessons, the highest lake in the world.

I found a hostel, it is a proper backpackers place but I have my own room and the owners are very sweet. The room however, does appear to be in the middle of the hallway and will be very noisy so looks like another sleepless night! I have had a quick look around which I think is all that is needed. Puno is a stop off point for travellers exploring the Lake and going to Bolivia. A lot of the women here wear the traditional bowler type hat with all their bright scarves and skirts, I keep trying to take sneaky pictures but they really don’t like it.

I have bought a ticket which leaves early tomorrow and takes me all the way to La Paz, I have decided to spend a couple of days in Copacabana on the way back, when I can go and see some of the islands. I had been thinking that after the salt plains I might come back up through Chile but have decided against that now (I think!) as I will be running a bit short of time.

I must once again point out how cheap it is here. I paid my bill at the lovely hostel in Arequipa before I left and for 4 nights with a good breakfast, wifi, cable TV, hot showers and lots of help, plus the trip to Colca canyon with 1 nights accommodation, plus my bus ticket today and my laundry, altogether it cost £70.

Right, off to drink more coca tea, I am feeling a bit dizzy here, mind you thats probably tiredness and not just the altitude!

Survived the altitude!

Have had a pretty tiring two days but it was well worth it. Set off at 7.30 yesterday morning and wound our way up the valley, past volcanoes and mountains into the most beautiful scenery. There were 17 people in our group and to start with I thought they were a strange lot but by the end everyone was friendly and 'had bonded'! Half of the people were Peruvian and there was a Japanese couple, an Isreali couple, a Spanish couple and me! The guide spoke really good english. We stopped for coca tea at 3,600 meters and then climbed to 4,900 meters and I was fine. It was pretty cold up there though, I don't know how the women in all their traditional dress stay up there all day long selling their wares! In the afternoon we descended to 3,800 meters and after eating went to our hotels (another loose use of the word, but it was fine, there was a bed and water and some warm blankets). Late afternoon we went to some hot springs, I have been desperate for a warm bath for weeks and so it was lovely to just lay in the water for an hour or so.... mind you coming out was a different matter, the sun was setting and it was freezing!

In the evening we went to eat and watched traditional music and dance. Now, as I don't speak much spanish I didn't really get what was happening in the dance, I know it was a dance of love with lots of different sequences. In the final part the woman throws the man on the floor and starts whipping him and then the man throws the woman on the floor and does the same??? It was all very amusing until they decided to do the same to two members of the audience... why oh why do I always get choosen??? There were about 100 people there but oh no, it was me that had to dance with the man, was then thrown on the floor and whipped!!!! And it hurt!! Nothing like a bit of public humiliation for the single woman!

I didn't sleep that well, it was very cold and then we were woken at 5am for an early start up Colcan canyon. It is deeper than the grand canyon and the views were spectacular. The selling point of the trip is to get to the highest point and then see the condors, but we didn't see any.

Everywhere we stopped there were people in traditional dress trying to sell their goods. These people are so poor and the tourist industry is their means of survival. In the villages all the women walk around in their long skirts and hats. There are amazing hats everywhere and I know why they all look so good in them, it is because Peruvians have got lovely round faces so hats work (obviously nothing to do with the burning sun and freezing cold, just a fashion statement!)

Back late afternoon but no time to rest because the buses are running again, so have booked a ticket for early tomorrow morning to go to Puno, which is on the shore of Lake Titicaca and then hoping to get a connecting bus to Caopacabana which is just into Bolivia. Apparently it is nicer than Puno and from there I can get a boat out to one of the islands.

I will be sorry to leave my lovely sanctuary in Arequipa but know if I want to get to the salt plains that I need to start moving. So maybe the next blog will be from Boliva... I wonder what currency they use there? x

PS. Had to put the tourist shot of me with Llama and eagle! Better than the tourist shot of me being whipped on the floor!